An Italian in cooking: let’s start from P(asta)
For all those who don‘t live in Italy, but love Italian cuisine
First things first. From where I could start if not from here: the basis for Mediterranean and especially Italian cuisine.
Since we are famous in the world for our pasta, let’s honor it to lead the way. Pasta is an extremely democratic food, it is suitable for all kind of environments, from inn to starred restaurant, it is cheap and has a good yield, especially if you have to feed a large family. The secret lies all in raw material and in cooking, then the dressing is only a matter of fantasy (no, ketchup is not even to take into account!).
A little bit of history
We are not starting form Adam and Eve, only from Etruscan and Magna Graecia representing approximately central and southern part of Italy in VIII century B.C. Actually, similar forms of dough between water and flour may be traced back to neolithic, but we settle. The amazing thing is the other big manufacturer of pasta in the world, China, start to produce it about 3800 years ago, but the two cultures don’t cross if not in rather recent times. No, it wasn’t Marco Polo to bring pasta in Italy! Indeed, two completely different products are born for both material, at that time China didn’t know wheat, and type of processing. The two products were developing in parallel.
The name “pasta”, that comes from the Latin, literally means “mass of flour with dressing or seasoning”, and it begins to be used shortly after the year 1000. Before the Grecian and Etruscan names was used, they were làganon (from here “lasagne”) and makarónia, literally it means “blessed food”, now “maccheroni”.
It was in the Middle Age that it was thought to boil pasta instead to put it in the oven, as for lasagne. Meanwhile different pasta shapes began to be developed, and also filled pasta like “tortellini” or “agnolotti”. Another major change was the drying. It was conceived in medieval Muslim Sicily who perfected some of the Arab techniques used to carry similar products through the desert. And because of drying, pasta could be exported everywhere.
Raw material
I do remember that years ago, in a time when I used to take holiday by camper, which means to cook a lot, I noticed that pasta sold in French supermarket wasn’t the same as Italian one. Also buying Barilla, and then a true Italian brand not what passes for it, wheat was less hard, not to mention that cooking timing was the prologue of an horror film.
Over the past two or three years, Italian pasta export in the world made a huge leap forward, with nearly 200 countries beneficiaries. This makes me think the situation has definitely improved, and even in other countries there are high quality products albeit, alas, with a highest price.
As with anything, raw materials make a difference, although the touch in cooking can save the day. Without knowing which brands are sold in your country, among those most widespread abroad I can afford to recommend, if you do find them: Garofalo and Rummo.
Let’s just cut the chase: how to cook pasta
Pasta may be “al dente” — the fact that also in English is used the Italian term is meaningful — or to perfection, if you like it a little more soft, but never overcooked! Over the years I learned the ones overcooked that work in cooking are… “the overcooked”: braised, stew, roast and alike. Point. Otherwise better to stay behind than exceed — which does not mean to eat raw stuff, mind you.
But back to pasta. Firstly you should choose a suitable pot, a regular aluminium pot, but the size fitting the amount and the shape of pasta. High pot for spaghetti and long pasta in general, lower for short pasta shapes — Penne, Conchiglie, Fusilli etc. Roughly a diameter of 21cm and 9cm in height, if pasta is short, and 15cm for spaghetti, works to serve from two to four persons at most. Pasta must be comfy in the pot and be able to absorb all the water it deserves. Then the pot must be filled for three-quarters, heated up to maximum with the lid and forgotten until the water boils. If you look at it, the water never boils, try it for yourself XD. By this time you add one or two handful of coarse salt, according to the amount of pasta, stir with a wooden spoon till the salt has melted. Just now you can put the pasta in the pot.
A note on servings. Obviously they are very subjective and depend on factors such as the appetite, the size of stomach that welcomes them, and if you make a one-plate meal or if this is one of ten dishes. Let’s say that on average for one person you calculate from 80 to 100 grams of pasta, even if many of my friends stay at about 110/120g, and I know people who is able to eat also 200/250g by himself, but you don’t want follow suit.
All the tips for a perfect pasta
Once you put the pasta in the boiling water, you have to stir for about half a minute, if they are spaghetti push them gently downwards, so that they are covered by water, and then stir carefully. This practice of stirring pasta immediately ensures that the exceeding starch dissipate in the water preventing the pasta from sticking and making almost unnecessary to stir it during cooking time. I’m saying “almost” because a little twist halfway through cooking will prevent that some chunk remains stuck to the bottom of the pot. Always halfway through cooking take a bowl and fill it with two or three ladle of water, and keep it there.
With regards to cooking, usually the timing reported on the package is right, but a tasting is always the best way. On sight we can say that long pasta is cooked when it folds around the fork without looking like a dead man upside down with his arms dangling. Short pasta at large is more “tough”, so it is better to taste it for yourself.
A suggestion for ravioli and filled pasta in general. When you boil the water, add in a tablespoon of oil, this way they will stay detached, without the risk of breaking them in the process to split them up.
When pasta is cooked should be well drained, seasoned and eaten immediately. Yes, I say “immediately”, not in the morning to have it ready when you come back for work break. Once you have made gravy it takes so little to cook, you have no excuses. Rather you can prepare for yourselves egg pasta, that usually has a cooking of 4' or 5' (tagliatelle, pappardelle and the like).
I have a story in this regard. My grandfather wife is German and even he had moved to Germany. Whenever my mother was going to visit them, the lady, who worked outside the house all day, for sense of hospitality used to cook pasta for my mother in the morning before going to work. My mother tried in vain to let her know it wasn’t necessary, she persisted. So at lunchtime, my mother threw away the pasta blob and happily she used to cook some new one.
Finally, a super trick that even many Italians do not use, but makes the difference between a nice plate of pasta with creamy texture (how I speak flowery), going down that is a pleasure, and a plate of pasta maybe good, but that you feel is lacking in seasoning. If you still wondered what to do with cooking water you put aside, here’s the answer. Unless you are making a pasta with tomato sauce or ragout or also an Amatriciana, which are usually smooth gravies that on their own dress well the raw material, you’ll need an element to amalgamate, bind and soften your gravy. If you add some oil, indeed, you would get only a plate disagreeably far too greasy. This applies really for all, from carbonara to pasta with clams, from a sausage and mushrooms to a Norma and even a garlic, oil and chilli. This element is precisely the cooking water that you have preserved. Once you drained the pasta, throw it back into the pot, off the heat, add the gravy and began to stir. Add some water and stir again, after a while you will take the hand with the quantities. It does not have to become soupy, but do not be afraid to add one or two ladles, the pasta will absorb water and you will get the desired effect!
Buon appetito!
